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दिल्ली से आइजॉल: भाग-2

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… गतांक से आगे

सुबह साढ़े चार बजे ही नींद खुल गयी। कमरे की खिड़की खोली तो सामने स्थित गर्वमेंट कॉलेज के पास हलचल दिखी। कुछ सुमो-बोलेरे जैसी गाड़ियाँ लोड या अनलोड हो रही थीं, सामान से नहीं बल्कि यात्रियों से। 8 डिग्री तापमान था। साढ़े पाँच बजे तक रौशनी होने लगी, छह से पहले सूर्योदय हो गया। सात बजे तक अच्छी भली धूप खिल गयी। मेरे होटल के सामने सब्जियों और मीट का बाजार लग गया। कुछ नयी तरह की भी सब्जियाँ दिखीं, खासकर पत्तेदार। मैं मांसाहारी हूँ, फिर भी मीट के बारे में चर्चा नहीं करना चाहूँगा। अगले दो तीन घंटे में सड़क कूड़ों से भर गया लेकिन बाजार हटते ही सफाई हो गयी। मैंने चाय मँगायी पर चाय में गुवाहाटी जैसी कोई बात नहीं थी।

मैं करीब साढ़े आठ बजे मॉर्निंग वॉक पर निकला। कहीं सड़क की चढ़ाई तो कहीं ढ़लान। मैं ठहरा समतल का टहलबाज। चढ़ाई से उपर पहुँचकर मन करता कि ढ़लान का फायदा उठाते हुए गुलाटी मार लूँ पर लोकलाज से ऐसा नहीं कर सका। पचास मिनट में लगभग 3.8 किमी ही चल पाया। दिल्ली में इतने समय में 5.5 किमी से अधिक धाँग देता हूँ। पूरे वॉक के दौरान सड़क पर ही चल रहा था लेकिन कहीं कोई चाय की टफरी नहीं दिखी, निराशा हुई। अलबत्ता दुकानों में टी-वेंडिग मशीन अवश्य दिखे। होटल लौटकर मैंने स्नान-ध्यान किया और तथाकथित कॉन्टिनेन्टल ब्रेकफास्ट लिया, जो रात के खाने से कई गुना बेहतर था। तभी जेफरी का फोन आ गया, “आइ एम देअर, सर।“

लगभग ग्यारह बजे सज मैं जेफरी के साथ रिएक त्लांग के लिए निकल पड़ा। जेफरी ने रिपब्लिक रोड से होते हुए गाड़ी ऐसे निकाली कि मैं आइजॉल के अधिकांश भाग देख सकूँ। उसने मुझे गवर्नर हाउस दिखाकर सॉरी बोला, गाड़ी में बज रहे अंग्रेजी गानों के लिए। मैंने ‘इट्स ओके’ कहा लेकिन उसने हिन्दी गाने चला दिए। सड़कों पर जाम था। दिल्ली का दिलवाला बिहारी बाबू होने के कारण मेरे लिए यह जाम उँट के मुँह में जीरे जैसा था, लेकिन सामने अनेकों आइजॉल टैक्सी की कतार देखकर जेफरी के मुँह से अनायास ही निकल गया, “दिस इज व्हाट आइ हेट।“ आइजॉल शहर को दूसरे गोला से आए गोलू की दृष्टि से मैं देखता रहा। लगभग 25 मिनट में हम शहर से बाहर निकले।

शहर से बाहर निकलते ही रोड मरम्मती पर लगा एक बेबी रोलर दिखा। चार-पाँच मजदूर भी खट कर रहे थे। सबने चेहरे पर पाउडर जैसा कुछ लगा रखा था। जेफरी ने बताया कि यह ‘फेस-पैक’ म्याँमार से आता है जिसे मजदूर ऐसा काम करते हुए चेहरे पर लगाते हैं। उसने और स्पष्ट किया, “दिस इज सम सॉर्ट ऑफ सनस्क्रीन प्रोटेक्शन।“ थोड़ी देर बाद हम त्ल्वांग नदी पार कर रहे थे। लोहे का पुल ऐसा लग रहा था जैसे अंग्रेजों के जमाने का हो, आज तो हम खरभुसिया महात्मा गाँधी सेतू बनाते हैं जो तीस साल में ही टें बोल जाए। नदी में पानी कम था लेकिन इतना साफ कि सतह के पत्थर ऐसे दिख रहे थे, जैसे शीशे में रखें हों।

अब हम एक छोटे पनबिजली परियोजना के पास से गुजर रहे थे। मुझे पानी और पान की तलब लगी। एक झोंपड़ीनुमा दूकान से एक बोतल पानी और चूने की अधिकता वाला कत्था रहित पान लिया गया, मिजो मशहूर कच्ची सुपारी के साथ। 40 रुपये देने थे, मेरी जेब में सिर्फ 20 थे। वॉलेट के लिए जेब से लेकर बैग तक सब देख लिया पर वह मिला नहीं। जेफरी ने पैसे दिए और हम आगे बढ़ चले।

मैं वॉलेट में पड़े पैसों की चिन्ता में कम और उसमें पड़े अल्फा, बीटा और गामा कार्डों की चिन्ता में अधिक दुबला होने लगा। आधार कार्ड प्रिंट निकालने की विधि सोचने लगा वरना विमान में कैसे चढ़ता। उधर जेफरी फोन पर मिजो भाषा में बात कर रहा था। तभी होटल से फोन आ गया कि मेरा वॉलेट मेरे बेड पर पड़ा हुआ है। मुझे यह भी कहा गया कि जितने पैसों की जरुरत होगी, उतने जेफरी दे देगा। दरअसल, जेफरी ने मेरे मिजो मेजबान को फोन कर दिया था और उन्होंने होटल में एलार्म रेज किया था। मेरे जीव में जैसे जोरन पड़ गया।

मनोहारी दृश्यों के बीच घूमती सड़कों पर जाँबाज जैसी फील लेते हुए हम करीब सवा घंटे में आइजॉल से 30 किमी दूर स्थित रिएक पहुँचे। वहाँ मुझे रिएक त्लांग का मतलब पता पड़ा। रिएक जगह का नाम है और त्लांग मिजो भाषा में पहाड़ को कहते हैं। जेफरी एटीएम से पैसे लेने चला गया और मैं गाड़ी में बैठा था। नशे में धुत एक साठ वर्षीय सज्जन मुझसे मुखातिब थे पर मेरे पल्ले कुछ नहीं पड़ रहा था। जेफरी ने आते ही उन्हे डाँट पिलायी और हम पहाड़ की ओर निकल पड़े। पहाड़ की चढ़ाई से पहले हमें गाड़ी छोड़नी पड़ी। वहाँ माउंटेन क्लाइंबिंग लर्निंग वॉल दिखा। वहीं हमने एक आदर्श मिजो ग्राम का पर्यटकीय दृष्टि से बनाया गया प्रतिरुप देखा, जहाँ मिजो ग्रामीण संस्कृति और पारिवारिक शैली के कुछ टेक्स्ट अंग्रेजी में लिखे थे।

जेफरी ने कहा कि चलिए पहाड़ पर, बीस मिनट पैदल चलना होगा। मैं ठहरा वॉकिंग चैम्पियन, चल पड़ा। 15-20 मिनट की चढ़ाई में ही चैम्पियन चंपू दिखने लगे। जेफरी ने कहा कि 10 मिनट और। रास्ते में विश्राम स्थल भी थे। मैंने एक बार सुस्ता लिया। साफ और तेज खिली धूप में बहती ठंडी हवा ने शीघ्र ही तरोताजा कर दिया।

चलते हुए एक गुफा मिली, उस प्रकृतिक छत के नीचे हमने सेल्फी लिया। रास्ते में दिख रहे लोगों को देखकर जेफरी बता देता था कि ये पहाड़ पर जा पाएंगे या नहीं। मैंने अपने बारे में पूछा तो वह हँसकर बोला, “यू कैन।” दूसरा 20 मिनट भी खत्म हो गया तो जेफरी ने 10 मिनट की एक और किश्त फेंकी। उसकी हँसी मुझे चुभ गयी थी। अब मैंने इन किश्तों की परवाह छोड़ दी थी।

करीब 65 मिनट बाद जेफरी ने एक सँकड़ी सीढ़ी चढ़ने को कहा। बगल की गहरी खाई देखकर मैं लौटने के बारे में सोचने लगा लेकिन ईगो ने पैरों को आगे बढ़ा दिया। लगभग बंद आँखों से मैं सीढ़ी चढ़ने लगा। सीढ़ियाँ खत्म हुईं तो हम वहाँ थे, जहाँ पहाड़ों ने गोला बना रखा था और उस गोलाई के बीच की खाई को तो पूछिए मत। मुझे घबराहट होने लगी। मैं वहीं बैठ गया। ध्यान भटकाने के लिए मोबाइल देखने लगा। जेफरी ने वहाँ से आइजॉल दिखाने की कोशिश की, लेकिन मैंने ध्यान नहीं दिया। थोड़ा सामान्य होकर मैंने कुछ फोटो लिए और पन्द्रह मिनट बाद वापस लौट चले। पता नहीं कि प्रकृति का सौन्दर्य बोध अधिक हुआ या स्वयं के लिए भय बोध।

सीढ़ियाँ उतरते ही मैंने अपनी बढ़ी धड़कनों पर नकेल कस दिया। मैं फॉर्म में वापस आने लगा। उतरने में वैसे भी अधिक श्रम नहीं था। जेफरी के ‘यू डिड इट’ से ‘हाँके भीम भए चौगुना’ की तर्ज पर मैं स्वयं को हिलेरी और तेंजिंग जैसा समझने लगा। थोड़ी देर पहले की अपनी पतली हालत भूलकर मैं पहाड़ पर जा रहे लोगों की क्षमताओं पर जेफरी से मजे लेने लगा। जेफरी ने कई शॉर्ट-कर्ट्स लिए ताकि हम जल्दी से नीचे उतर सकें। रास्ते में जेफरी के अनेकों परिचित मिल रहे थे जिनसे वह मेरा परिचय करवा रहा था। ऐसे ही हम पार्किंग के पास पहुँच गये। आने-जाने और पहाड़ पर रुकने में लगभग ढ़ाई घंटे लगे और हम करीब चार किलोमीटर चले। पार्किंग के पास एक स्टॉल से हमने पानी और चाय लिया। चाय न लेते तो बेहतर होता।

चाय खत्म करके हम गाड़ी में पहुँचे। गाड़ी स्टार्ट करते हुए जेफरी ने पूछा, “हाउ वाज दैट?“ मैंने उत्तर दिया, “जस्ट अमेजिंग।“

क्रमश: …

दिल्ली से आइजॉल: भाग-1

लेखक गद्य विधा में हास्य-व्यंग्य, कथा साहित्य, संस्मरण और समीक्षा आदि लिखते हैं। वह यदा कदा राजनीतिक लेख भी लिखते हैं। अपनी कविताओं को वह स्वयं कविता बताने से परहेज करते हैं और उन्हे तुकबंदी कहते हैं। उनकी रचनाएं उनके अवलोकन और अनुभव पर आधारित होते हैं। उनकी रचनाओं में तत्सम शब्दों के साथ आंचलिक शब्दावली का भी पुट होता है। लेखक ‘लोपक.इन’ के लिए नियमित रुप से लिखते रहे हैं। उनकी एक समीक्षा ‘स्वराज’ में प्रकाशित हुई थी। साथ ही वह दैनिक जागरण inext के स्तंभकार भी हैं। वह मंडली.इन के संपादक है। वह एक आइटी कंपनी में कार्यरत हैं।

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